Is Málaga worth visiting? I think it is, but I would not treat it as just an airport for the Costa del Sol. We stayed in the city, walked almost everywhere and even went into the sea in March. To be honest, it was more of a quick dip than a proper swim, but there was plenty of sun. ☀️
My ideal plan is four days in Málaga. If you only have three, spend two days in the city and use the third for one day trip. Do not make the mistake of skipping Málaga itself because Caminito del Rey, Ronda and Granada sound more dramatic. The centre is compact, the beach is walkable and several major sights are free on Sunday afternoons.
A few warnings before you start planning: Caminito del Rey often sells out, Málaga Cathedral’s rooftop visit is closed during major roof works, currently expected to continue until late 2027, and the Gibraltar cable car is being rebuilt. I explain the alternatives below. I also share the small details I actually needed with two children, including where we found a free public toilet near La Malagueta beach.
My quick Málaga verdict
| Best for | A city break combining history, food, a city beach and easy day trips |
|---|---|
| How long I would stay | Four days ideally, three days at a minimum |
| Best time | March to April or October to November for sightseeing without peak summer heat |
| Do you need a car? | No for Málaga itself. Consider one only for several day trips |
| Good with children? | Yes. The centre is walkable, La Malagueta has playgrounds and we managed Gibralfaro with a pushchair |
| My honest downside | The centre can feel very touristy and accommodation was more expensive than in Alicante |
We hardly used cash because cards were accepted almost everywhere. For the city itself, public transport and walking were enough. If your main aim is a quiet sandy beach holiday, I would stay outside the historic centre or compare Málaga with Alicante. If you want museums, tapas, a fortress, a port and the sea in one easy trip, Málaga works very well.
Things to book before visiting Málaga
- Book Caminito del Rey early. The cheapest official tickets are often the first to disappear. If they are sold out, check a guided trip with transport from Málaga on GetYourGuide. You can save 5% in the GetYourGuide app with my code CESTUJZABABKU5.
- Check Sunday timings. The Alcazaba and Gibralfaro are free from 2 pm on Sundays, Museo Picasso Málaga is free for the final two hours and Centre Pompidou Málaga is free from 4 pm. Expect queues during the free periods.
- Compare accommodation before buying a flight. Málaga can be surprisingly expensive. I also found many central apartments with very small windows, so read the room details and the worst reviews, not just the overall score.
- Rent a car only if it solves a real problem. We did not need one in the city. For a road trip around Andalusia, I usually compare offers through DiscoverCars.
Málaga itinerary for 1, 2 or 3 days
The old town is compact, so your first day can be almost entirely on foot. Keep a full separate day for a trip outside Málaga instead of trying to squeeze Caminito del Rey between city sights.
| Time in Málaga | The route I recommend |
|---|---|
| 1 day | Mercado de Atarazanas, the historic centre and Calle Larios, the cathedral, Roman Theatre, Alcazaba, Muelle Uno and La Malagueta beach |
| 2 days | Day 1: old town, market, cathedral and Alcazaba. Day 2: Gibralfaro, walk down to the port, Museo Picasso or Centre Pompidou, then tapas or the beach |
| 3 days | Spend the first two days in Málaga. On day 3 choose one trip: Caminito del Rey for nature, Nerja and Frigiliana for sea and white streets, or Ronda for views and Puente Nuevo |
What would I do? On a first visit I would give Málaga two complete days. With four days, add one major day trip and leave the final day flexible for the botanical garden, a museum or the beach. A week is not too long if you want to explore more of Andalusia.
Best things to do in Málaga
Start at Mercado Central de Atarazanas
I would visit the market in the morning and return for an early lunch before it becomes too crowded. We ate prawn skewers, patatas bravas and drank beer while standing at a stall. The fruit smoothies were excellent too. It is touristy, yes, but it was still one of the places where we genuinely enjoyed eating.
Málaga Cathedral: visit the interior, not the roof for now
The cathedral is known as La Manquita, the one-armed lady, because its second tower was never completed. Free access for worship is currently available early in the morning, from 8:30 to 9 am Monday to Saturday and until 9:30 am on Sunday. Tourist visits are paid at other times.
Important update: the rooftop tour is suspended during a major restoration. The works are expected to continue until late 2027, so ignore older guides that still recommend climbing to the roof. Check the cathedral’s official opening information before your visit.
Alcazaba de Málaga
The Alcazaba is probably Málaga’s most popular historic sight. There are stairs, but we could also use the lift with a pushchair. Inside you get gardens, fountains, orange trees and city views. General admission is currently €7, or €10 for a combined ticket with Gibralfaro. The monuments are free every Sunday from 2 pm. Check the official prices and opening hours.
Gibralfaro Castle: my favourite view
I actually liked Gibralfaro more than the Alcazaba. Perhaps that was because fewer people made the climb. You can take bus 35 up to the entrance, then walk around much of the castle walls. There is a small museum and a café in the courtyard, although the coffee did not look very promising to me.
I recommend walking downhill afterwards, even with a pushchair. The first section is steep, but the viewpoints are beautiful and the route brings you back towards the Alcazaba and cathedral. Gibralfaro uses the same official prices and Sunday free-entry period as the Alcazaba.
Museo Picasso Málaga and Picasso’s birthplace
Picasso was born in Málaga, so you can visit both Museo Picasso Málaga and Museo Casa Natal Picasso. During our visit, renovation meant that the main works were not on display. That may also explain why we found no queue. This was our experience at that time, not the normal situation now.
Museo Picasso Málaga is currently open daily from 10 am to 7 pm and offers free admission for the final two hours every Sunday. Tickets include a mobile audio guide. Always confirm the details on the official museum website.
Centre Pompidou Málaga and Muelle Uno
Málaga was the first international branch of Centre Pompidou. Even if you do not go inside, the colourful cube is worth seeing on your walk to the beach. Admission is free on Sundays from 4 pm. The museum is closed on Mondays.
Continue along Muelle Uno, the port promenade. Its long white pergola looks a little like a skeleton, but you will appreciate it because it lets you walk from the centre towards the beach in the shade.
La Concepción Botanical Garden
La Concepción is outside the historic centre, so allow enough time for the journey. Standard entry is currently €5.20. It is free on Sundays from 2 to 5:30 pm between October and March, and from 4:30 to 8:30 pm between April and September. The garden is closed on Mondays. The official garden website has the latest timings.
La Malagueta beach: my honest experience
La Malagueta is about a 15-minute walk from the centre. It is long, has children’s playgrounds and the water entry was gentle enough for small children. The sand is darker than in Alicante and, when we visited, there were more cigarette ends than I would have liked.
A practical tip I wish every guide mentioned: I do not know of a public toilet directly on the beach. We found very good free public toilets on level -1 of the underground car park beside Centre Pompidou, only a short walk away.
Málaga with children
Málaga was easy for us with two children because the centre is compact and the beach is close. We used the lift at the Alcazaba and managed the downhill walk from Gibralfaro with a pushchair. Plaza Enrique García-Herrera has a playground, with Santa Coffee Camas nearby. We had a brunch there with an omelette, avocado, toast, juice and coffee.
- La Malagueta has playgrounds and a gentle entry into the sea.
- Children under six enter the Alcazaba and Gibralfaro free.
- Caminito del Rey has a strict minimum age of eight and you must show official ID.
- The full Caminito route is one-way and takes about three to four hours, so it is not a casual pushchair walk.
- We found supermarkets in the centre, including Carrefour Express and Dia, selling baby food and nappies.
Málaga Airport to the city centre
The easiest option is the C1 Cercanías train. According to Aena, it takes about 12 minutes from the airport to Málaga Centro Alameda and about eight minutes to Málaga María Zambrano. We could comfortably walk from the centre station to our accommodation. Check the current timetable and fare before travelling, especially for a very early flight.
The airport felt large and busy even in March. We used the Costa del Sol VIP lounge before flying home. Despite some poor recent reviews at the time, I thought the food was good, including warm tapas and vegan ice cream, and there was plenty of space. Children under six currently enter Aena lounges free, but check the official lounge conditions.
One more personal warning: Ryanair staff in Málaga were strict about checking cabin bag and suitcase dimensions. Do not assume a bag that passed unnoticed on your outward flight will automatically pass here.
Where to stay in Málaga
For a short first visit, I would stay in the historic centre or Soho so you can walk to most sights. La Malagueta is useful if the beach matters more. Around María Zambrano station is practical for the airport and train trips. Torremolinos can be cheaper and has a more traditional resort feel, but it is less convenient for walking around Málaga every day.
Read room descriptions carefully. I nearly booked several attractive apartments before noticing in the reviews that they had tiny windows and poor ventilation.
Málaga accommodation map
Use the map to compare availability in the historic centre, near the beach and around the railway station for your dates.
We stayed in the historic centre at El Alamo. At the time it worked very well for our family of four: everything was close, there was a lift and air conditioning, the owners communicated perfectly and self check-in made a late arrival easy. Important update: it is now adults only, so it is no longer an option for families.
Other options to compare are Coeo Santa Maria Cathedral Signature Apartments for a location beside the cathedral, Coeo Fresca Roof Garden Signature Apartments for a rooftop terrace and small pool, and Beach House if you prefer to be beside the sea. These are researched alternatives, not places where I personally stayed.
Best day trips from Málaga
Caminito del Rey
Caminito del Rey is the most obvious nature trip from Málaga, but it needs planning. The full route is 7.7 km, linear and one-way, with an estimated total time of three to four hours. Children must be at least eight and bring official ID. Flip-flops, hiking poles and pushchairs are not allowed.
You can travel towards El Chorro by train, drive, or book a day trip from Málaga with transport. The official shuttle between the north and south sides is paid separately and the driver accepts cash only. Always check the official Caminito del Rey rules before booking.
Ronda
Ronda is about 100 km from Málaga and attracts plenty of visitors, but Puente Nuevo really is impressive. The town stands on two rock masses separated by a deep gorge, with the 18th-century bridge joining them. If you do not want to organise transport, compare a Ronda and Setenil trip from Málaga.
Nerja and Frigiliana
Nerja has sea views, a small beach and the famous Cueva de Nerja. Go early because it is popular. Combine it with Frigiliana, a beautiful white village above Nerja. It is inevitably touristy in the daytime, so staying overnight in a casa rural lets you see it after the day visitors leave.
Gibraltar while the cable car is closed
The Gibraltar cable car is closed for a complete rebuild and is expected to reopen in 2027. Do not buy an old itinerary that assumes it is running. Alternatives include the new official electric tourist shuttle, a licensed taxi or tour, and walking into the Upper Rock Nature Reserve. Check the arrangements shortly before travelling because this is still changing.
You can also take an organised Gibraltar day trip from Málaga. If driving, I would leave the car in La Línea de la Concepción and cross the border on foot rather than take a hire car into Gibraltar. Check whether your rental agreement allows you to cross the border at all.
And keep food hidden around the Barbary macaques. One of them snatched the snack I had just bought. Yes, I should have expected that.
More trips if you have extra time
- Cueva del Tesoro: an unusual marine cave close to Málaga.
- Marbella: a modern, more expensive coastal city with a very long promenade. We spent a week there in January.
- Mijas: touristy but beautiful, with white streets and views. I would stop at Coffeeart for coffee.
- Dunas de Artola: wooden paths through beach dunes that worked with our pushchair. We also managed to lose one another there. 😀
- Colomares Castle: a fairy-tale monument near Benalmádena with a tiny chapel hidden inside.
Where we ate and drank coffee in Málaga
The best coffee I had was at Kima Coffee. It was only €2 during our visit. The disadvantage is that there was no outdoor seating and only high stools inside, but there are benches nearby, so take it away. Other good coffee stops are Mia Coffee and Next Level Specialty Coffee.
For a good-value lunch we tried La Nueva Traina near the beach. Our set menu cost €9.90 at the time and included two courses, dessert and a drink. We also returned to Casa Lola for tapas on Plaza Uncibay. They were very quick with the first order, but a second round took much longer, so order your tapas together.
For something more romantic, try Tasca Láska, run by Slovaks and serving unusual, award-winning tapas. One branch is conveniently near the railway station and another is by La Malagueta. I really admire the owner, Zuzana.
El Pimpi is touristy, but I still think the building and atmosphere make it worth a drink or tapas. With children it was not the easiest place for us because it has several levels and different seating areas. For cheap food, 100 Montaditos had €1 mini sandwiches on Wednesdays and Sundays when we visited. It was fine, not extraordinary gastronomy, but genuinely cheap and filling. For ice cream, go to Casa Mira.
Málaga or Alicante: which did I prefer?
I preferred Alicante, but only slightly. Málaga felt busier and more touristy, the weather was a little cooler during our trips, and accommodation cost more. Both cities have a useful urban beach, although Alicante had lighter sand and fewer cigarette ends when we visited.
Málaga wins for the range of major day trips and for combining the Alcazaba, Gibralfaro, museums, port and beach. Alicante is my choice for an easier, slightly calmer beach-city break. This is a personal comparison based on our visits, not a promise about the weather or prices you will find.
FAQ about visiting Málaga
Is Málaga worth visiting?
Yes, especially if you want a compact city break with history, museums, tapas, a walkable beach and easy day trips. I would spend at least two full days in Málaga itself rather than use it only as an airport for the Costa del Sol.
How many days do you need in Málaga?
Four days is ideal in my experience. With three days, spend two in the city and one on a day trip. One day covers the main old-town route, but it leaves little time for the beach, museums or Gibralfaro.
What are the best things to do in Málaga?
My priorities are Mercado de Atarazanas, the cathedral, Roman Theatre, Alcazaba, Gibralfaro, Muelle Uno and La Malagueta. Add Museo Picasso or Centre Pompidou if you enjoy art.
How do you get from Málaga Airport to the city centre?
Take the C1 Cercanías train. The journey to Málaga Centro Alameda takes about 12 minutes and to Málaga María Zambrano about eight minutes. Check the latest timetable and fare before an early or late flight.
Do you need a car in Málaga?
No. The historic centre, port and La Malagueta are walkable, and the airport has a direct train. A car is useful only if you plan several independent day trips around Andalusia.
What is the best day trip from Málaga?
Choose Caminito del Rey for dramatic nature, Nerja and Frigiliana for the coast and white-village atmosphere, or Ronda for Puente Nuevo and gorge views. With only three days, choose one rather than rushing through several.
Is Málaga good for families with children?
It worked well for us with two children. The centre is compact, La Malagueta has playgrounds, and we used a lift at the Alcazaba and walked down from Gibralfaro with a pushchair. Caminito del Rey is strictly for children aged eight and over.
Read next: Things to do in Alicante and my favourite day trips · Caminito del Rey tickets and practical tips · More of Andalusia: Aracena, Riotinto, Cádiz and Carmona (in Czech)
I started travelling after finishing secondary school in 2005. Since then, I have studied in New Zealand and lived in Malta, Madeira, Brittany and Porto. I speak English and French, some Portuguese and very basic Chinese. I travel with hand luggage only and used to stay through Couchsurfing; these days, I use HomeExchange. I travel with my two children. Professionally, I am an agile coach, and I also perform improvisational theatre. Read more about me and my work as a Czech travel influencer.